Jozan's Other Kyoto Garden

Apart from Shisendo, the only Kyoto locale closely associated with Ishikawa Jozan is the garden at Shoseien, popularly known as Kikokutei. The design of the garden is often credited to Ishikawa and famed designer Kobori Enshu, but according to Alison Main and Newell Platten in their book The Lure of the Japanese Garden, Shoseien likely dates back to 872 of the Heian period when Minamoto no Toru lived there.

While it is not uncommon for gardens to claim a design association with Soami or Kobori Enshu for the sake of status, after visiting Kikokutei I had reason to believe that Ishikawa Jozan did assist with the redesign of the garden commissioned by Higashi Honganji temple.

This covered bridge, named Kaitoro on the signboard, has an unorthodox look characteristic of Ishikawa's style. Its top-heavy roof precariously supported on thin legs creates a sense of imbalance one also finds at Shisendo.

On the right, we see a profile view of Bokakaku. Unfortunately, I was unable to locate my photo showing the front view, which would have revealed a wooden re-creation of a stone lantern typically found in Japanese gardens. The room on the second floor is accessible by these ladder-stairs somewhat awkwardly attached to each side of the structure. Again, it is hard not to see Ishikawa's influence here. Bokakaku itself serves a similar function to the moon viewing room at Shisendo. The whimsical similarity to a stone lantern also seems like the product of his idiosyncratic mind. Finally, the unevenness of the roofs and the wing-like covered stairwells suggest the type of asymmetrical balance he successfully realized with Shisendo, if less so here.

Whether or not either of these examples help prove Ishikawa Jozan's influence, you might well be wondering if the garden itself merits a visit during your time in Kyoto. While it is not an essential stop, I could think of at least three good reasons to make the trip if you plan to stay in the old capital for a few days. If you are a birder, the pond closest to the wall is home to a number of species that spend the night here and hunt in the Kamogawa River by day. You stand an excellent chance of seeing a variety of egrets and herons. If you are staying at the cosy (not to mention affordable) Ryokan Yuhara or only have time for a short excursion starting from Kyoto Station, Kikokutei is easily reached on foot. Of course, if you share my interest in Ishikawa Jozan's life and work, then it will be a necessary part of your itinerary.

Map of Shoseien

The Japanese Garden: Shoseien

Travis Belrose is the author of The Samurai Poet, a work of historical fiction based on the life of Ishikawa Jozan. Learn more here.