24 Hours in Sakura

Kyoto, Nara, Sakura. While that last name on the list doesn't quite belong with the first two, if you ever get stuck in Narita on a layover, you'll thank me for writing this post then. One caveat, if it's Monday and not a national holiday, the places listed are closed unless otherwise indicated.

Sakura (佐倉) is a major station on the Keisei line (not to be confused with the brand new Keisei Narita Sky Access Route), so you can reach it by Local, Express, or Limited Express without worry. If you take one of the slower trains, just make sure that you don’t get off at O-Sakura (大佐倉) station, which is much smaller and a little out of the way. As you pass the ticket gate, make sure you turn left. You’ll know you went the correct way if you see a 7-11, a Marond bakery (best anpan in Japan--and yes, I've been to Kimuraya in Ginza), and a large paved circle where taxis are lining up for prospective customers. We’ll save the taxi for later. Bear right, and start walking up the major road heading south from the station. Cross the street at the lights, and pop into the tourist office located on the corner to pick up a nice bilingual tourist map of the city if you can't use the map I've included at the end.

From the tourist office, keep heading straight up the hill on the long road you started out on. Soak up some of the local atmosphere, grab a drink from a vending machine--just make sure you reach the top of the hill where the facade of an old bank building fronts the modern Sakura City Museum of Art (佐倉市立美術館).

Insider tip: Stop in at Yac's on the way up to buy some cheap drinks and snacks you can have later.

Believe it or not, this museum has hosted exhibitions featuring Rembrandt and Dali, not to mention lesser known, yet talented artists such as Tsukasa Sato. If you’re lucky, something interesting will be going on. If not, it’s still worth a look inside at the architecture and a stop for tea and cake in a nice climate controlled environment.

Insider tip: If you go a short distance down the road to the east, there is a nice little martial arts shop across the street from the museum. They sell excellent dogi and wooden practice weapons.

Leaving the museum (assuming it's at your back), turn left and walk to the end of the road. Locals jokingly refer to this street as "Sakura Ginza." While the shopping may not compare with Tokyo's famed neighbourhood, there are a couple nice little shops along the way. At the end of the street, take two quick lefts, and look for a white two story building just back from the main road. This is the Tsukamoto Sword Museum (塚本美術館). Even if you aren't a big fan of weapons, it's worth a look inside (Tuesdays-Fridays only) to see the craftsmanship on display. I came away from it understanding why collectors spend thousands of dollars for a single blade of the right provenance.

All roads lead to Makata Shrine during the Fall Festival.

After inspecting the silverware, return to the major intersection you turned in from, and cross the street heading west. Hopefully you're hungry, because on the right is Sakura's best soba restaurant bar none. Boshuya (房州屋) is super busy on Sunday at lunch, so don't be surprised if you have to wait for a table. It's right next to Makata Shrine (麻賀多神社), so you'll easily know if you went too far.

Insider tip: One of their best cold soba dishes is called "tororo soba". If you aren't up for the slimy potato mix though, a simple order of mori soba will cool you off. One of their most popular hot dishes is "tanuki soba" with little bits of deep-fried dough in it. If you're not a big eater, just say "han" before your choice (e.g. "han mori soba") and you'll get a smaller serving at a reduced price. Just tell them Travis sent you. Of course, they'll have no idea who you're talking about unless your Japanese is good enough to explain "he's the blond foreigner who used to come in years ago with the Aikido group every Sunday."

Hopefully you are well rested after your meal, because it's time to enter the labyrinthine streets of central Sakura in search of three well preserved samurai homes, the buke yashiki (侍武家屋敷). Starting from the soba restaurant or shrine, there are two ways to get there--the safe way and the adventurous way. If you don't mind a slightly longer walk, the safe route is as follows. Cross the street and walk straight south until the fork in the road. Turn left, heading east toward the main road. Just before reaching the main road, turn right and go south. Take the first right and follow the road west until you reach the homes. You can buy tickets for one or all three. The adventurous route is like this. Start from the shrine/soba-ya, head south and follow the natural bend in the road to the west. Take the first left and this road will take you to the samurai homes after a steep hill climb through a stand of bamboo. There are brown signposts marking the road, so if you lose your bearings watch for them. Check out Rekishi no Tabi's photo gallery for a sneak preview of the homes.

After you have enjoyed some classic domestic architecture, then safely retrace your steps to the road that passes Makata Shrine or see the map at the end for a more direct route. Either way, you will reach the Makata Shrine road and follow it westward toward Sakura Castle Park (佐倉城址公園).

Insider tip: While on your way to the park, you will see a large white building on your left. This is the Sakura City Gym (佐倉市体育館). If you pop inside you will see a poster of Giants legend and hometown hero, Shigeo Nagashima, and get one of your last good chances to buy a cold drink before reaching the park.

While it's doubtful you will be lucky enough to be walking the boulevard when the cherry trees are in full bloom, I've included the picture above as a visual reference. If you see a large school on the right, you'll know you're headed in the proper direction. Near the entrance to the park, you will notice a little garden on the right that is maintained by the National Museum of History (国立歴史民俗博物館). Here they cultivate species of plants used throughout the centuries to better understand the lives of past generations. Not a must see for most, but certainly worth a visit for specialists.

Sankeitei

A place to rest

As you enter the park, bear left. This path will take you to Sankeitei (三逕亭), a traditional Japanese tea house that was transported from the Tokyo shrine honouring General Nogi, a victor in the Russo-Japanese War of 1904. If you happen to be here on a Sunday, you can pay a nominal fee for a demonstration of the tea ceremony. Clean public washrooms are available just around the corner in case you need them. Continue west and take one of the paths that leads to the open park where Sakura Castle once stood. The former site of the castle and gates are well marked, and the park makes a perfect place for a picnic. In the southwest corner of the park is an interesting cherry tree with a nearly horizontal branch whose bark has been worn smooth from all the people sitting on it. While not of comparable historical interest to the two large theaceaes trees that were brought back from Osaka after the castle fell in 1615, it possesses its own charms.

If you're not completely tired out at this point, you can take some stairs down to Ubaga Pond, do some turtle watching, and admire the flowers maintained by locals just past the pond. If you have an interest in Japanese history, but lack specific knowledge of the subject, the National Museum of History (the big brown cube on the hill) offers a broad overview. 

Insider tip: Even if you pass on the museum, it is possible to access the gift shop without buying an admission. As soon as you enter the museum, turn left and go straight down the stairs. Unique items include medallions with the crests of famous samurai families and a variety of traditional children's toys. A number of history books are for sale as well if you read Japanese.

All is one

Sadly, your day is winding to an end. If you've had enough of walking, you can take a taxi back to the station from the museum. If you're hungry though, follow the main driveway out of the museum, pausing a moment to enjoy the stone Buddha carving in the grotto on the left at the bottom of the hill. Turn right at the lights and walk past the 7-11. You will see a little restaurant on the right called Chojuan (長寿庵) that serves delicious tempura dishes on beds of rice. It's a little greasy, but you deserve some comfort food after a walk like this. If karaoke is more to your taste, turn left at the lights instead. No more than five minutes away you will see a restaurant with karaoke on the second floor.

Insider tip: This nondescript building across from the museum sells some of the best Japanese sweets around. You might doubt me to look at it, but if you go in and order, you will find treats that would not look out of place at a Kyoto tea ceremony. 

If you're back at street level, a taxi is almost pointless, since you're a ten minute walk from the station. All the city buses passing here go to the station, so if your timing is good, they are an option too. If you do walk, it's worth mentioning that the tall white building on the right is the Sakura City Hall. A bit further down, there is also a full service post office just before you reach the station. Hopefully, you'll enjoy your day in Sakura. If I steer you wrong anywhere, please let me know so that I can correct my mistakes.

Insider tip: Although this post was written from the perspective of Keisei train riders, it is possible to use your JR Rail Pass to reach Sakura. Given it’s location though, you might end up spending more money taking a taxi to one of the attractions mentioned above than you would save by using the pass.

For more on Sakura attractions not covered here, please see Another 24 Hours in Sakura.


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Travis Belrose is the author of The Samurai Poet, a work of historical fiction set in 17th century Japan. Learn more here.