24 Hours in Tokyo

On the face of it, talking about a 24 hour visit in Tokyo seems pointless. Not only is it one of the world’s largest cities, but it has enough on offer to keep anyone busy every weekend for an entire year. And yet, not every tourist makes a priority of visiting Tokyo. Some are intimidated by its sheer size, others have been scared off by rumours of high prices, and the rest are turned off by its reputation as a concrete sea. But for every Japan visitor who bypasses Tokyo, there are probably at least ten who spend some time there, from business travellers based in Yokohama to English teachers from Korea clearing up visa issues. Which brings us back to the question, 24 hours in Tokyo--what to do?

Like this, only bigger

It was once suggested to me that the best introduction to Tokyo involves riding the Yamanote train around the loop one time to get oriented (just make sure to get off at least one station before the one you started at), then a second time with stops at the most famous stations. There’s a lot to be said for this idea. For one, it’s a lot cheaper than taking a bus tour. For another, it would allow you to take in Shinjuku, Harajuku, Shibuya, Ginza, Akihabara, and Ueno Park in one fell swoop. If hopping on and off a train for a quick look at Tokyo’s satellite of “downtowns” is not for you, consider this itinerary.

The good old Asahi Beer Headquarters

Early in the morning, but preferably after rush hour to avoid subway stuffing, make your way to Asakusa on the Ginza line. Alight there and walk to Asakusa’s famous shopping area of Nakamise Dori. Make sure you see the big red lantern that marks the entrance to Sensoji Temple. If you want to have a bit of fun, join the crowd frantically pitching coins into the offering box in front of the main hall. It seems more like a carnival event than a religious experience, and it is unlike any scene I’ve witnessed at other temples and shrines in Japan.

Bye bye river bus

After you’ve had your fill of Asakusa, book a spot on the Sumida River Bus for a leisurely cruise downstream. Along the way you’ll pass by the site of Matsuo Basho’s former house on the right, and the Ryogoku Kokugikan (Sumo hall) on the left. Right next to the arena is the Edo Tokyo Museum, which offers a great introduction to the history of the city, including a replica of the famed Nihonbashi bridge. While not included in today’s itinerary, it makes for a tempting stop if you’re in town for more than a day.

Hamarikyu

Disembark at Hamarikyu Garden, where you can enjoy some green space in Tokyo. The garden once belonged to the Tokugawa Shogunate, and it offered the most powerful man in the land a place to unwind and set his hawks free to hunt ducks in the pond. While you are unlikely to encounter anything as dramatic when you visit, the garden makes for a nice respite before rushing headlong into the crowds and glitz of Ginza.

Ginza has a well deserved reputation as the home to a number of high end luxury shops, but like Bloor Street in Toronto, it wears its wealth lightly. People from all walks of life mingle on the streets, and the prices for cake and tea at Cozy Corner are the same here as they are in the suburbs. Although Kabuki-za is currently being rebuilt, it is worth walking by the construction site so that you can find the nice little fabric shop on the diagonal corner that offers affordable handkerchiefs and furoshiki for wrapping goods that make excellent souvenirs. Ginza offers a range of restaurants from budget to luxury, making it a great place to stop for lunch before or after shopping in the area. Some other shops to watch for include Yamano Records, Kimuraya Bakery for the anpan, and Yaesu Book Center.

Tokyo Tower

From Ginza, it is easy to get to Tokyo Tower if one is so inclined, but having never been to the red Eiffel Tower lookalike, I would suggest walking due east to the site of the Imperial Palace. The East Gardens are open to the public, affording you a second chance to take a break from the din of the city. Even if you skip the garden, a walk along the perimeter of the moat offers its own charms. If you are in good shape, follow the path counterclockwise until you reach the Budokan. Yes, the very same Budokan where Cheap Trick performed their famous live album, and also the site of martial arts events such as the annual All Japan Aikido Demonstration held every May.

One place to avoid is the Yasukuni Shrine across the street, which is infamous for enshrining Class A war criminals, annoying Korean and Chinese politicians, and as a rallying point for belligerent ultranationalists broadcasting militant slogans and songs from dark vans parked out front. If you do decide to enter anyway, apparently there is an account of the events of World War II that will seem unlike anything you have ever encountered before.

Me, live at the Budokan

If you have taken your time to enjoy the day so far, chances are it is getting close to dinner time and thoughts of how to spend your last few hours in Tokyo. For those inclined to the club scene, head to Roppongi and try not to miss your flight the next morning. For those with slightly more sedate tastes, Shinjuku offers a neon lit nightscape, plenty of restaurants (including a good mix of international cuisines) and late night shopping at not one, but two Kinokuniya bookstores, along with a host of small shops that specialize in every imaginable product under the sun.

When your night finally comes to an end, you’ll realize that there remain a ton of things left on your Tokyo to do list, but you can still feel satisfied knowing that you sampled a little bit of east, central, and west Tokyo without having to rush. And if you would like a second opinion, there’s always the Wallpaper* City Guide, which is guaranteed to offer a completely different mix of suggestions.

Have fun!

Travis Belrose is the author of The Samurai Poet, a work of historical fiction set in 17th century Japan. Learn more here.