Over A Hedge: Sake Review: Tamanohikari is Golden

Samurai weren't known for holding their liquor.

Tamanohikari Omachi Junmai Daiginjo (TOJD) is one of the easier to find premium sakes available in Ontario. At $17.35 for a 300ml bottle, the price might seem steep when a great bottle of wine can be had for a similar price. If you look at it another way though, casual sake drinkers might find the price and smaller bottle far more accessible than paying $35-40 for a 750ml serving. Best of all, if you're the only drinker in the house, 300ml is far more manageable given that you have about a week after opening to enjoy sake at its best. Let's see if it's worth the price.

Packaging

While the look of a bottle has nothing to do with the taste of what's inside, packaging and price have a subtle influence on consumers which can affect perception in anything but a blind taste test. Forewarned is forearmed, as they say, so by discussing packaging up front, it might be possible to mitigate its influence when it comes time to sample. TOJD comes in a frosted green bottle with a gold label that effectively combines shiny and matte surfaces like a Kano painting. Touting its company history (founded in 1673) and its location in Kyoto, there's no question that they are positioning themselves as a premium brand. Lest anyone doubt a city known for geisha and temples can produce quality sake, it's worth noting that the Fushimi district in the southern part of modern Kyoto has a long history in the trade. The rice itself is imported from Okayama prefecture, a fact that is labelled clearly in Japanese but does not appear in the English translation.

Tasting

Now it's time to answer the most important question, does the brew live up to its provenance? I was greeted with a slightly harsh alcohol note on the first sip that was undetectable afterward. My second impression was that the sake had a pleasingly dense texture that gave it real body. As I continued to drink, it seemed rather neutral on the palate with no floral notes and only a hint of fruitiness. It paired very well with a medium-flavoured stir fry dish and left no aftertaste at the end. Overall, the sake was so good that I found myself drinking more than usual. If the worse thing you can say about a sake is "be careful you don't finish the whole bottle in one sitting," then you probably have a winner on your hands.

Statistics

Sake Meter Value: +3.5

Acidity: 1.7

Amino Acid: 1.2

Alcohol %: The Japanese label estimates 16-17% and the English label lists 16.2%. The LCBO website states 16.9%. Take your pick.

Semaibuai (% of rice polished off): 50%

Verdict

Junmai Daiginjo sake are generally the most expensive because brewers polish 50-65% off each grain of rice (not one at a time, mind you) at the beginning of the brewing process. While the percentage removed is by no means a guarantee of quality, it provides a good guideline for the average consumer. As far as TOJD is concerned, it is well worth the money, and one could even argue that it is a bargain for a Junmai Daiginjo. If you are looking for a treat that pairs well with rice dishes, you can't go wrong with Tamanohikari Omachi, so long as you serve it chilled. It's simply too good to ruin with heat.