Sake Review: Pure Dusk

Akita prefecture is famous in Japan for the beauty of its women, dating back to famed Heian-era poet Ono-no-Komachi. While I'm unfamiliar with Akita's reputation for sake brewing, the area is blessed with mountain-fed springs and a small rice growing plain, so it has the ingredients for good sake within reach. Today we'll see how Shimizu-no-Mai's Pure Dusk junmai daiginjo measures up against the best exports Japan has to offer.

Packaging

Pure Dusk comes in a frosted bluish-green bottle that offers a subtle indicator that it is a junmai daiginjo. From what I have seen, it appears that most of the junmai daiginjo come in frosted bottles, and the plain glass ones contain ginjo and futsu (regular) sake. The most attractive feature of the label is the stringy calligraphy in which the company and product name are written. Overall, I like the look because it reflects quality without creating a sense that I'm paying more for the packaging than the contents.

Tasting

The first thing I noticed upon pouring a glass was the yellow tone of the sake, suggesting that it was not carbon filtered. John Gaunter, writing in The Sake Handbook, points out that this amber colour is natural, and more commonly found in higher grades of sake. The colour is intentionally not filtered out to allow for appealing flavours to remain.

Gaunter also suggests that it is best to consume sake within six months to a year of its brewing date, but I can happily report that Pure Dusk showed no sign of age after approximately 1 1/2 years, and that it tasted exactly the same a couple days after opening when kept refrigerated.

Upon first taste, I was greeted by a neutral open, with any evidence that this was an alcoholic beverage completely hidden. It was not until reaching at least the halfway point that a delicate fruity flavour emerged. I could not pinpoint it immediately, but the first thought that entered my head was wild strawberries, so I settled on that. The finish showed hints of black liquorice, an echo of the Greek liquor, ouzo, which seems common across a variety of sake I have tried.

Statistics

Sake Meter Value: +3
Acidity: 1.3
Amino Acid: (not listed)
Alcohol %: 15.5 (The LCBO website lists it at 14.9%)
Semaibuai (milling rate): 45%

Verdict

I was very impressed by Pure Dusk. Although one of the worst things you can say about a beer is that it tastes like water, saying this sake is like cold spring water is meant as a compliment to its fine balance. The best part is that if you live in Ontario the LCBO is clearing out its $21.35 300mL bottles for $17.90, so it is a bargain if you can find it at your local store (you can search inventory on-line to avoid disappointment). If you can find it cheaper in your corner of the world, I'd be curious to hear how prices compare.

Links (provided for reference only--I receive no affiliate fees)

Shimizu-no-mai website
LCBO product page
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