Saturday, August 17, 2013

Suomenlinna Fortress: Historic Hike Easy on the Wallet

I'm not going to repeat the history of Suomenlinna Fortress here since you are bound to learn about it if you do any trip planning before you go to Helsinki. We came close to cutting this part of our itinerary, but were glad we didn't. The ferry ride (4€ or free with day ticket) to the island and back is worth it for the view of the city, and it didn't feel crowded even with two Chinese tour groups crossing with us. The walk is well signposted, including distance indicators to help budget your time. Even if you have a late afternoon flight, it is still possible to tour the main part of the islands in the morning and be back in time for checkout and a shuttle to Vantaa airport.
It's hard to explain all the charms of the island. From cannons that have been repurposed as a fence around the lighthouse/church to The Hobbit-like effect of overgrown bunkers, there's something about the place that evokes the spirit of Shelley's "Ozymandias," even as it impresses as an achievement in military engineering. In the end, this blend of the futility and wonder of human endeavour makes the experience of exploring the ruins far more enjoyable than if it were a pay per visit experience with actors walking around in period costumes like you often find throughout Canada and the U.S.
We saw lots of young couples here on dates, but it was also kid-friendly with cannons to climb and dark tunnels to explore, just make sure you have a flashlight app on your smart phone. I had to use my camera flash every few metres to light the way.
State of the art weaponry from 300 years ago

Birders will find it easy to add a number of species to their life lists here, and animal lovers should note that slow moving frogs like living in the damp bunkers, so watch your step and use a flashlight to avoid adding to the amphibian body toll.
Beware of Giant Spiders!

All in all, if you like a good hike and are fit enough to climb some modest hills, Suomenlinna makes a great break from sightseeing and shopping in Helsinki. It also is a good idea to stretch out your legs if your next stop is Japan.


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