Hisashiburi Shisendo

One of the highlights of 2013 was my trip to Finland and Japan. The highlight wrapped inside of that one was a solo trip I was able to take to Kyoto. I began and ended my day at Shisendo. While there, I discovered that in some ways it is not as tourist friendly as it used to be, but there were new pleasures to be found in exploring nooks and crannies not yet embedded in my mind.

On the downside, tourists are no longer allowed to take interior photographs of Shisendo. This loss is somewhat mitigated by the fact that you can now take a virtual tour using Google Street View. As effective as that can be in refreshing one's memory after the trip, it also means there are no pictures to take home for personal use. I commented on the change to the receptionist hoping that she would offer an explanation, but she merely agreed that it was a new policy without elaborating. If it is any consolation, garden photography is still permitted, including outdoor shots taken from within the building.

This indoor photo was taken before learning of the ban.

Given that more of the original artwork and scrolls have been replaced with replicas, I can't imagine that the ban on interior photography was implemented to help protect the artifacts. It is more likely that the move was made to promote postcard and photo book sales, but that is pure speculation.

There was some good news on the omiyage (souvenir) front at least. Yamamoto Shiro's excellent biography, Ishikawa Jozan to Shisendo (Jozan Ishikawa and Shisendo), is still available for sale, and it is now possible to buy Shisendo Jozanji branded incense. I bought the shorter (13.5 cm) of the two options and can attest that the scent evokes the place perfectly.

I am embarrassed to report that I momentarily became disoriented in Shisendo and found myself in the room where I expected to see the paintings of the 36 poets hanging, only to see they weren't there. After calming myself, I discovered the replicas with their shiny gold backgrounds in the next room. The woven reed ceiling is looking a little worse for the wear, but it is likely that it has been replaced many times since Jozan's day.

Thankfully, you can still photograph from within Shisendo.

Another difference is that the door leading to the Shogetsuro (Tower for Whistling at the Moon) is now firmly closed behind a large multilingual sign indicating access is forbidden. It's a shame if previous visitors had tried to sneak up, because it has removed the opportunity to at least look up the stairwell and see the tree trunk that was embedded in the wall as a handrail.

Although I took time to relax and enjoy Shisendo, it really was a working trip as I spent 3 hours in the morning and one in the afternoon shooting film and video for this blog and my website. The advantage of spending so much time there was the chance to see all the hard work that goes into maintaining its pristine condition. I arrived a few minutes after opening, and an obaasan was already bent over at the waist weeding and pruning. She would stop occasionally to answer a question or share a laugh with a tourist, but for the balance of the day it was rare to see her standing clear of the vegetation.

Obaasan, with bamboo arches (click to enlarge).

Watching her work, I discovered that what look like deeply embedded bamboo arch barriers are actually easily removable to allow for access to the plants and shrubs on display. Previously, I had imagined that groundskeepers were required to step over them when necessary.

Labourers were also busy throughout the morning lugging equipment, building materials, and trimmings in and out of the grounds to complete various maintenance and restoration projects. The receptionist also pitched in by leaving her post from time to time to sweep the tatami floors. Considering Shisendo is over 370 years old, it is no surprise that so much work is required, but seeing it only added to my appreciation of the effort required to preserve its rustic beauty.

Late afternoon in the lower garden

Before leaving around noon, I asked at the front desk if re-entry was permitted. Not that I minded paying 500 yen to return later in the day, but I was curious about their policy. The receptionist informed me that I would be allowed to enter a second time without paying. She seemed surprised to see me return at 3:00, and mercifully laughed off my mistake when I raised my camera with a gentle reminder that photos were not allowed inside. This was my first time walking the grounds near sunset, and the golden rays illuminating the moss through the shade of trees was gorgeous. By coincidence, I bumped into the receptionist at the bus stop on the way back where we struck up a brief conversation. She shared her opinion that late afternoon is the best time of day to see Shisendo, and I would have to agree despite my appreciation of the dry garden in the morning sunlight.

Can the interior be photographed from outside?

Before closing, allow me to advise that if you ever visit Shisendo, don't rush or you will miss its charms. Just before I finished my morning photo shoot, a small group of English speaking tourists arrived. In my vanity, I considered offering them a guided tour of the grounds, refraining in the end because it seemed wrong to mediate their experience in any way. I left soon after and paused for a water break at a shrine just up the road. When I looked back down the hill, the group was already filing into their waiting taxi. I could not fault them for leaving so soon, because I know myself that if I had toured Shisendo quickly during my first visit in 1998, I would not have been able to distinguish it from any of the other small temple gardens I had visited. Shisendo is a place that reveals its secrets to the patient. If you step carefully, you might hear the voice of Ishikawa Jozan as he explains his choices when designing the villa and garden. Although the experience is less than what it was even ten years ago, it still offers a quiet escape, especially during the first and last hour of the day.

If you are interested in visiting Shisendo, you can find detailed information and directions at my website.