Sake Review: Ninki-ichi Gold Should Be Popular

Wait! There's enough for both of us! 

When a sake's name roughly translates as "Number 1 Popular Gold" one might be forgiven for wondering if the contents live up to such an overeager claim. Even if the name tries too hard, the chance to support the economy of the region of Japan hardest hit by the 2011 tsunami makes Ninki-ichi Junmai Daiginjo an experiment too irresistible to pass up.

Packaging

Gold Ninki is served in a dark green bottle doubtlessly used to prevent natural light from spoiling the contents. The gold label has an attractive mosaic of matte and reflective squares that catch the light when viewed from different angles. At the liquor store I was initially concerned by the fact that all three remaining bottles had dented lids. Upon returning home I discovered that the lids merely concealed a high quality stopper that allowed for easy recapping of the bottle. In other words, the outer lid had nothing to do with the integrity of the seal and the dents did nothing to affect the quality of the sake.

Tasting

I was greeted with a fruity nose reminiscent of Gala apples. The flavour itself is a rich, ripe fruit flavour which I found sweet, but not cloying. There is also a moist mouthfeel and a thick texture for those who enjoy a dense body (count me in). The alcohol percentage is listed at only 15.5%, but I found that it went straight to my head after a small glass. When I sampled it again a few days later, it did not have the same impact, so perhaps my first taste happened on an empty stomach. The sake held up well for about a week, but lost some of its complexity after that, so definitely share it with friends if you're opening a big bottle.

Statistics

Sake Meter Value: +2
Acidity: 1.8
Amino Acid: not listed
Alcohol %: 15.5
Semaibuai (milling rate): 50%

Verdict

I would recommend Gold Ninki with a couple reservations. First, this is a sake that retails for ¥1260 ($13) in Japan, but costs nearly three times as much in Ontario ($36.95). While there is obviously a price to be paid for importing alcohol, better values with similar flavour profiles are available if you comparison shop (click the Sake tag below for more reviews). Even if you want a luxury treat, sometimes buying a 300mL bottle of premium sake can meet that need without breaking your budget. Secondly, it should be mentioned that since the sake is produced in Fukushima, radiation might be a concern for you. I do not mean to be alarmist, but between mislabelled food scandals in Japan and the government's lack of transparency over the Fukushima reactor crisis, it would be remiss not to disclose the fact that I am not well-informed regarding testing protocols for sake at either the export or import end (this post from The Gray Report might make you feel safer). Obviously, I did not let this fact stop me from buying and drinking the bottle myself, but you can judge for yourself. If I receive any new information regarding this concern, I will add it in the comments section below.

Links

Ninki-ichi Website
LCBO Product Page
Silk Road Wine and Spirits Tasting Notes

Travis Belrose is the author of The Samurai Poet, a novel in which sake is consumed with varying consequences.